Salem is a real city, which means neighborhood matters more than it does in a small town. The downtown and Salem Common offer walkable urban living; the McIntire Historic District holds the Federal architecture the city is known for; Salem Neck and the Point reach into the harbor; and the Willows on the north side is a waterfront neighborhood with its own amusement park history.
October is famously intense, with visitors arriving from everywhere for the witch trial history and Halloween. The rest of the year is more ordinary: schools, commuters, a busy waterfront, and a restaurant scene that keeps locals downtown all year.
The commute is the city's quiet superpower: Salem Station puts Boston's North Station about 30 minutes away on the Newburyport/Rockport Line, and Routes 1A, 107, and 128 connect the city by car. If you are weighing Salem against Beverly or Lynn, my commuter rail guide compares the line town by town.